When Marwan sent us pictures of his cheeses, we couldn’t believe how beautiful they are. We naturally assumed that he sells them, but we were wrong. He is a home cheesemaker, working at developing his own recipes.
Marwan’s Story
I first got interested in cheese making when I realized I really enjoyed tasting the different types of cheese from all over the world. I come from a brewing background as a profession – yeast and fermentation was not new to me.
My father, Dr. Raouf Abujaber established our brewery in 1954, in partnership with Heineken/Amstel Holland. I have worked in beer production all my life and I actually got some proper beer education in Holland right after I graduated from Washington College, MD.
Cheesemaking is my hobby and is totally disconnected from all that boring business stuff. I aspire to make a unique cheese that is representative of the area and it’s rich history. It will have to be based on ewe’s milk because of it’s traditional availability. For now, I am working hard on my skills and the fine tuning of my cheese flavour and texture. Wish me luck.
The challenges of modifying an edible material into a more complex food was always interesting. It was all about the quest for knowledge, and ultimately “how is it actually made.” So, I started basic cheese making at home and as I got better at it I then attempted more complex cheeses.
Where I am now, at my skill level, was not easy to reach. There have been many heroic failures in trying to make cheese that turned out to be unexpected and even unexplainable with a heavy dose of disappointment.
Having plentiful knowledge of the science in cheese making makes it much easier to produce a good product and to be able to reproduce it consistently. There is a good sense of satisfaction you get when you know you made a good cheese.
How did you learn?
I started by trying to make basic fresh cheese by buying some rennet tablets and some fresh milk. There was no instructions at all. It was a real shot in the dark.
It quickly become obvious that there is more to it than just that, so I got a couple of books and read them over again and again. The books were a complete knowledge multiplier. I can not stress enough how important it is to read deep into the fundamentals of cheese making.
When the current situation gets better, I will participate in a course, since I truly believe it is beneficial to interact with more senior cheese makers.
I made the cheeses in these pictures with a lot of TLC …
The Redfield label is me trying to establish a cheese brand rather than people just saying it is Marwan’s cheese. Redfield (translated from Arabic) is a red topsoil estate we own here in Jordan that was a significant agriculture enterprise in previous years.
It all falls under the history of grain producing Christian families of the Holy Land. I would like to think of myself as a descendant of the early Christians that spread the word of the Eastern Orthodox Church.
Store cheese plays a good part in my life since I really enjoy eating it. However, making your own cheese and enjoying it is even better. But what is best is to make a cheese that others enjoy with you.
Before going completely commercial, I would like to advance my skills and start making much more complex cheeses. I understand the built-in efficiencies of making cheese on a larger scale but for now I will keep it homemade.
elaine aidley says
Blessings Marwarn!
Thank you for sharing your journey into cheesemaking – adding to the endless possibilities with what you can do with milk. Thank God for cows! and for people who do not lose sight of the preciousness of the ripening of the ages, of people past and their legacies, and cheese of course! In which we all have choices, resources, and knowledge with which to play and work and produce something which only we can do.
As a dairying family of generations past, we are rediscovering those ancient roots of adding value to our own milk, making cheese and kefir, and selling direct. Hard work, but we get to eat the fruit of our labour which overflows to others. Thank God for the creative process.
Haya Halasa says
I love cheese Good luck wish you all
the best
Thank you Haya, take care and stay safe.
Dearest Marwan,
You are inspirational and phenomenal. Your dedication, determination, and perseverance are obvious in the results you’re getting.
Bless your precious heart, hands, and mind !
I’m positive this will be a great success.
Wishing you all the best !
Reem Ayoub
Dear Reem
I thank you for your wonderful words of encouragement. I must send you some cheese for you to taste.
Have a wonderful day.
Marwan R. Abujaber
Thank you Haya, take care and stay safe.
Thank you for sharing.
Fascinating article, Marwan! And Greetings from Maryland! I see that you are a Washington College grad! I reconnected on FB last year with a school friend from 50+ years ago who lives in Chestertown and she invited me to visit her there this Summer!
I am so impressed. Your story resonated with me in so many ways. From your need to teach yourself, I too am self taught, after combing through many books and online articles. Lots of trial an error. I graduated from pharmacy school in 2009 at the age of 50. I only practiced for 5 years before the market over-saturated and I couldn’t find a job. We have 18 acres and I always had a dream to own dairy cows.
Then your improvised cheese press going boom in the night. I used pharmacy textbooks and cast iron fry pans.
Your work is beautiful! I share mine with family and friends.
My cheese fridge broke, so I need to make room for this year’s cheese.
Dear Mr. Marwan,
Happy Easter!!!
I am new to the cheese-making world, that is why I joined this site. I just love cheese, especially white cheese (Mozzarella / Halloumi) therefore, I have to learn how to make it :). I tried to make white cheese with boiled milk and vinegar, it turns out ok after I strain it y a using Cheese bag, but the cheese does not get hard.
Thank you for sharing the Halloumi cheese-making recipe, I will try my best to make it.
Is it possible to share some basics on cheesemaking using Citric Acid and vinegar. I finally found some citric acid and would like to learn how to use it. In addition, can you share simple recipes for making hard white cheese for my family.
Many thanks in advance.
Marwan, the photo of your pan fried Halloumi is making me drool! I love the way that your cheeses and equipment draw upon your international experiences. Your cheeses are totally professional looking. If you decide to embark on commercial production you will be incredibly successful without any doubt. Great job on the label design too.
A wonderful article. You have inspired me to return to cheese making! God bless!
Susan McKenna
Hello Marwan,
Wow! Truly impressive. I loved your improvised version of the cheese press. Thought I was the only ‘rare’ creature using pavers and bricks to press the cheese curds. Like you i am dreading the day one of those things falls off from our kitchen island! Coming from a risk assessment professional background I try to make sure there’s enough mitigation to prevent the ‘big bang’!😊
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Vincent
You never cease to amaze us. Kudos. Wishing you all the best of luck in your endeavours in making the red fields the seat of a curd dynasty.
Thank you Sister for the cheering encouragement.
My mother-in-law use to preserve hallowi cheese every summer in Amman Jordan. I wish she taught me when I lived there.
Thank you ‘A Better Whey’ for the great article. I appreciate the recognition.
Regards, Marwan
Marwan, I want to say thank you so much for sharing your cheesemaking journey with our readers. Your cheese making knowledge is impressive, diverse and thoughtful throughout. I am particularly impressed with your love of the imperfect. It is a philosophy I adhere to in my own life. I treasure arts of all kinds, especially when I see the humanness of the maker in the creation. We are each perfectly imperfect in our own unique ways, seeing this over and over fills my heart and feeds my soul. I am sure whatever you end up doing with your cheese making will be wonder-filled, full of life, love and generosity towards all. Keep in touch, many blessings for you and your family.
أتمنى لكم كل التوفيق في رحلة صناعة الجبن
Stay Safe and Stay Creative,
In Peace, Ricki
Dear Ricki, thank you for taking the time to read the article. I have been trying to make a good cheese for almost 3 years on and off when time allows. It is definitely a great joy for me to see others enjoy the same interests and to actual come back to you with good words of encouragement, it makes it all worthwhile and satisfying. I wish you and your family well and thank you for your lovely words.Have a pleasant day.
Marwan, you’re simplicity in home cheese making insures me! I, too, had a simple start with rennet and some purchased pasteurized, homogenized milk. I sort of made some what I thought was fresh mozzarella using powdered milk after a failure with the ultrapasteurized milk. Then I read and read, and honed my developing skill. Now I drive 180 miles to another state to purchase freshly milked raw cow’s milk with which I then make cheese over the next several days. I do this once a month, producing two cheeses each time.
Your cheeses are beautiful! You are solidly grounded in your home and tradition. You are seeking to produce ewe’s milk cheese the others will enjoy with you. I applaud you!! And that halloumi with infused dried mint is very enticing! Well done!
Dear Charles, thank you for your positive comments on my cheese making, it definitely add momentum to my efforts. Cheers.
It is certainly inspiring to read your story. It gives me faith I can become a better cheese making with hard work and perseverance. The cheeses you made look wonderful. I wanted to try them. I have only goat’s milk at this time. One thing I discovered is that the Colby recipe using goat’s milk becomes like sharp cheddar after waxing it and aging a year.
Thank you Margaret for your comment. I wish I had access to good goat milk here, the goat variety in our region are great 4×4 trail blazers but not much of milk producers. Wishing you a good day.
I used to live in Beirut in the 1950’s when I was a little girl. I learned how to milk from a Palestinian goat herder from whom we bought our milk to drink. I was 12 years old then and didn’t milk again until I was in my 50’s. One never forgets how to milk! This article resonated deeply from your sense of rootedness and grounding; that quality from the Old World. Cheesemaking is transformative work and about as alchemical as it gets today. Can you give the recipe of how you make Greek Cypriot Halloumi? It looks delicious fried! and I want to make it with the dried mint. Thank you so much!
Dear Meibao Nee, thank you for the encouragement, The Greek Cypriot Halloumi needs to start with good fresh cow milk which I lightly pasteurise, traditional Halloumi is made with Ewe’s milk which I personally like very much however good cow milk seems to go better with most friends. Hold milk at 88°F, Next I would add Calcium Chloride and slight Lipase (optional) depending on the flavour intensity you want. Take every step with plenty of time to ensure better heat distribution throughout the whole process. Next I would add the rennet of your preference, leaving it to set well while holding that 88°F. Next cut the curds gently in every direction and wait.It is important to let the mix rest a bit and then to occasional keep stirring. Next you need to raise the temperature ever so slowly to 105°F while stirring to keep the curds loose, hold at this temperature for 15 min to ensure all the curds are treated the same and are soaking in the heat well. Next I would transfer the Whey and filter it while doing so, I would starting heating it up to 195°F. Next I would roll out the curds like a slab with even thickness all around at 1inch and press it down with a board with medium weight, you don’t want to lose the thickness here because that will make the Halloumi very hard and dry later. Here you can also add dried mint or other dried herbs, just mix them well with curds before forming. A little salt is optional. I would keep it pressed for an hour and then cut it into even rectangles of around 3.5inch to 5.5inch. Check that your whey is at 195°F and as clear as possible, skim the top of any floating matter that might have formed, this is important for the smooth outer look of the Halloumi. Dump the pieces in hot Whey and wait for them to all float, this is heat treating the Halloumi curds so they become squeaky and resistant to heat and melting. After they float I would hold the pieces in the hot whey for another 10 minutes. Next I would take them out and fold each one over itself on the long side giving it that authentic Greek Cypriot look. You need to brine the cheese if you want to store it. Use as little salt as possible. Any salt type is fine since there is no starter culture here to worry about. Enjoy and have a pleasant day.
Thank you, Marwan, for taking the time to write how to make Halloumi…wow, it’s quite a process! Interesting that it has to go into a hot whey bath! I will give it a go and let you know how it turned out. I have 17 heads of cattle, two of them Jersey cows that are waiting to give birth. I hope to get fresh cow milk in a few months. Meanwhile, I just have goat milk to work with…I suppose I can use that. I’m making garlic/rosemary infused chevre layered in organic olive oil, peppercorn, and fresh rosemary. It’s quite a nice spread on fermented bread. Thank you, again!
Hello Marwan, here’s my second attempt to reply. The first one mysteriously disappeared. I wonder if you got it? Anyway, I wanted to thank you for taking the time to write out this recipe. I didn’t know it was so complicated. I have never heard of heating finished cheese to near boiling point for so long! It’s an intriguing process and I look forward to making it. I have 17 heads of cattle, two of them Jersey cows who might one day grace me with calves and milk…not yet…the bull keeps trying. He’s a bit shorter than the gals so it’ll be interesting to see if something comes of all his efforts. I only have access to goat milk and will try to make halloumi with that. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Currently, I make a garlic and rosemary infused chevre layered in organic olive oil, peppercorns, and fresh rosemary. It’s a delicious spread on crackers or fermented bread.
I make chevre with flora danica inoculant. (4 gallons of milk to 1/4 tsp of Flora danica). Then wait two hours and add 3drops of calf rennet, hold it over night until curds form. Drain over cheesecloth all the next day. Then on Day 3, I salt the curds (4 heaping tablespoons) mixed well. Take 100g of fresh garlic, lots of fresh rosemary and put them in a food processor with some chevre and blend it all smooth. Take mash out and mix it into the batch of chevre. In pint containers,, I’ll put olive oil, peppercorns, rosemary, then chevre, then more olive oil, peppercorns, rosemary and more chevre, then top it off with olive oil, peppercorns and rosemary. The chevre is preserved by the olive oil and it’s a pretty presentation. I wish I knew how to send photos…sigh. Will let you know when I make the halloumi. Thank you, again.